Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
